"What does modern romantic dressing mean to you?" I bellowed out to Bette Midler, as she tried to escape a scrum of reporters and photographers backstage at Michael Kors.  "Oh, a little poitrine. the right shoe...and just keep fluttering those eyelashes!" she quipped, dashing off to the next show. While the Divine Miss M. may really understand the true nature of "strutting it", designers have other ideas-lots of them. And though political life in America may be a little  tenuous these days, they're determined to ground us all in unbridled sunny optimism for Spring 2008.

Despite the disparate approaches, certain trends were universal:  The caftan is making a big comeback. So is the safari look.  And then there are the bold prints, tribal graphics, tie dying, exotic beadwork and embroidery, and plenty of colour, largely along the lines of rainbow sorbet and various shades of lavender. Gold metallic accessories were ubiquitous. Tennis-inspired pieces cropped up in several collections. And for those of us who've been hiding the results of summer's hedonistic ways (think expanded waistlines) under those generous, empire cuts, you might want to join the gym: There's a new silhouette on the horizon that features a cinched waist and a flared skirt, and only those with trim figures need apply.  But there are plenty of relaxed looks too, and so much experimentation that just about anything promises to go, as established designers keep polishing their products and expanding their brands, and younger designers are delight in bravely pushing their own envelopes. 

"I'm not really that into fashion," confided Bryan Adams, an unlikely front row guest at the Ports 1961 show. "Look at me.  I mostly like to wear white T-shirts!" Even though it was only 9am, Adams had come out to support "West Coast talent"-Tia Cibani, a former Vancouverite transplanted to Hong Kong to design for the international label. She went the African route with wearable yet edgy looks inspired by early 20th century East Africa, when women first began to embrace their heritage, and celebrate their native culture in bold new ways. Toronto's Tu Ly styled the looks, with garments constructed from humble fabrics like gingham and poplin mixed with gold matellase and polished silk.  Unusual silhouettes emerged from innovative draping, with a relaxed, easy tone running through the entire exotic story.  Plaid, taffeta, and soft grey jersey surfaced in the mix, with safari day suits ready for the urban jungle.  Tie dye prints were a recurring theme, and head wraps and turbans topped off many looks, with great wedge shoes and quirky neckwear-including one bib adorned with  rubber-glove fingers, like weird flower petals.

Jeremy Laing, another home-grown talent who's making a buzz on the international scene is well on his way to being the first Canadian in a long time to receive widespread international recognition.  "His artistic approach is so appreciated," shared Ken Downing, Fashion Director for Neiman Marcus.  "We love the collection and really hope to get it in our stores." Laing's minimalist, architectural approach to design is intellectually stimulating, and his use of colour and digitally reproduced imagery of Canadian-born, NY-based artist Karen Azoulay, is visually arresting. Lainge's carefully edited-presentation included flowing silk, easy-to-wear dresses, and intriguing cotton origami dresses with interesting cape and wing effects. "I really want my clothes to evoke a northern sensibility," Lainge told me backstage.  "Not necessarily Canadian-most of us don't even know what that is-but a kind of quiet strength that we associate with Canada."

There was more intellectual romanticism from Vera Wang, who took us to ancient Rome with an eclectic collection of looks that ranged from duchess satin, drop-crotch cargo shorts to a pleated, silk jersey Goddess gown. "I was experimenting with diverse silhouettes," the designer explained. The splashes of chiffon were pretty, with panels flowing from fine knit sweaters, and dramatic gowns that were ultra elegant.  Wang, who made her name in bridal wear, has done a deal with American retailer Kohl's, to put out a lower end collection of practical pieces.  She's evidently using this main collection to continue riffing on more challenging designs. And Narciso Rodriguez, another intellectual designer who recently sold 50% of his company to Liz Claiborne, finally has the funds to really fly. Until now, it was his sexy, yet minimalist sensibility and architectural cuts that won him accolades.  For spring, Narciso not only gave us modern-looking Japanese-style kimono cuts, but he embellished some of the pieces with fantastic detailing.  There was delicate white-on-white embroidery, dazzling beadwork on a smart lilac and black dress, and rows of georgette rosettes appliquéd on both a dress and a coat-all lending a couture feel to the collection. Evidence of the impending new cinched-waist silhouette surfaced several times. Julianne Margolies, five months pregnant and looking radiant, hung out backstage pre-show with Rachel Weisz, another good friend of the designer's.  "He sent a bunch of things over, and I was sure nothing would fit, considering my new size," Margolies told me.  "But the first dress I tried on, this black empire-cut number (from his fall collection), fit perfectly, so I'm thrilled.  He really understands women's bodies, and how to dress us."  "And what's the most important style lesson that Narciso has taught you?" I asked Weisz.  "That less is more," the actress promptly replied.

Marc Jacobs got heady by presenting a collection that tried to put a new spin on sexuality.  Riffing on the notion of undressing, his show was presented "backwards", beginning with his bow and starting with the last look first.  The mix included conceptual designs like "half gowns", which revealed silky lingerie underneath. But offsetting the burgeoning intellectualism on NY runways are labels like Baby Phat, the new "Nicholai" by Nikky Hilton, and Gwen Stefani's L.A.M.B., which all offer plenty of sexy street and club wear.  Stefani drew on her early '80s musical roots, dishing out black and white checks, reminiscent of the legendary British "Two Tone" label that recorded all the Ska bands of the day. There were plaid minis and tight pencil skirts, high-waited shorts, and narrow cigarette pants to go with silver-zipper-trimmed black lace blouses, schoolboy blazers, funky little sweaters and cool vests. A healthy helping of animal prints made the collection racy, with dazzle provided by fine chain fringes and plenty of sequins.   "I really do design this collection for myself, first and foremost," Stefani declared. At the show's end, Gwen trotted out and grabbed her baby, Kingston, from hubby Gavin Rossdale, sitting in the front row with Boris Becker, Shirley Manson, Eve and Diddy. Curly-headed Kingston, wearing headsets to protect his little ears, and sucking on a big orange pacifier, looked like the epitome of a "Love Angel Music Baby". precisely what L.A.M.B. stands for.
 
Marc Jacobs, Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images

 
Gwen Stefani and family, Bryan Bedder/Getty Images for IMG

The "sporty luxe" story also raced through the mix for spring. Cynthia Rowley set her sights on St. Tropez, and the yachting life, with cropped pants, striped loose tops, short glam tank tops, pretty sundresses, and flowing print chiffon gowns. And Michael Kors, whose optimistic offering  was one of his most romantic and colourful in ages, dealt out delectable pieces for "courtside or poolside", with modern jersey and sweater dresses in rainbow sorbet shades and flowing floral print chiffon dresses-a  playful contrast from the crisp white tennis-inspired pieces and tailored white pantsuits. There were also gobs of gold metallic accessories.  "Michael often comes on vacation with us," shared the gorgeous Claire-Anne Stroll, married to the money man behind Kors.  "He really takes a great interest in how women live, and what kinds of clothes they need to get them through all that they do in a most glamourous way." 

With Demi Moore and Kyra Sedgwick in the front row, glamour was in high mode at Prouenza Schouler. The show was staged at the swish Park Ave. Armoury, celebrating the fact that the designers behind the successful label, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, have just sold 45% of their company to the Valentino Group.  You can tell that the money was there!  The collection they sent out was polished to sheer brilliance, with body-conscious outfits that involved layered vests and waistcoats and plenty of leg. Slightly militaristic in feel, there was lots of creative riffing on exquisite detailing:  The "gold leaf" dresses were especially luxe, and feathered dresses and skirts touted master craftsmanship from the House of Marie, the Paris couture atelier. Cinched waists heralded the new silhouette for the season.

Demi Moore in the front row, EMMANUEL DUNAND/AFP/Getty Images

"The fantasy of escaping to exotic islands and the wilder shades of love.." That's how Diane von Furstenberg described the inspiration for her spring vision, entitled "Under the Volcano".  The runway erupted with bursts of rich colour and bold prints, many with a tribal feel or floral motif.  These were clothes to sweep you away, with caftans, chiffon ruffles, beading and embroidery punching up the exotic feel, while loads of tamer safari looks, including a khaki silk shantung safari wrap dress, let us know this designer means business.  "Women are so strong. I always want to empower them even more.  But there are so many facets to the woman of today. That's why there have to be all these options," the designer told me backstage. Spring's overall message is traditionally about lightening up, and smelling the roses in style.  Barney's Simon Doonan best summed up the sentiments of the season when I asked him what he thought of von Furstenberg's show.  "It's encouraging a woman to relax, take a vacation, put down her BlackBerry..and go out and pick real blackberries!" he laughed.