FALL TREND REPORT

Travelling the world's fashion capitals as she does, Barbara Atkin, Holt Renfrew's Vice President of Fashion Direction, knows what it takes for aspiring designers to score superstar status. "They need to have a DNA," she says, particularly to up-and-coming Canadian designers. "They really have to look deep inside, see who they are and tell the world this is my point of view."

Fresh from the runway shows in Paris, New York and Milan, Atkin says elegant, eclectic options abound for Fall 2008.

"It's a season about contrasts. We're looking at life through a 70's lens but it's completely reinterpreted for 2008," says Atkin.

With a strong resurgence of separates - another 70's staple, offbeat mixes of fabrics, textures, shapes and silhouettes put fall's spotlight of redefined personal style. "There's so much going on today. Skirts are long, asymmetrical or micro mini. Chiffon, silks and laces are mixed with tweed, leather and fur. That choice completely empowers today's customer and lets designers stay true to who they are."

As for Canada's influence on these global options Atkin is hopeful. "We really have an opportunity in this country to stand out. Canada is a new fashion frontier and we can say something to the world that is very different. But our designers need to show us who they are. They have to keep their voice to make it on the world stage."

 

FALL'S 10 TREND TOPPERS

PUMP UP THE VOLUME
Controlled volume is a superstar theme this season. "There's a new looseness in fall's silhouette. You'll see it in puffy, ballooning hemlines. But the volume is always masterful and modern," says Atkin.

PEPLUM POSH
Fall welcomes the curvaceous return of the peplum jacket says Atkin. "Women love these jackets because they can be worn with anything today – jeans, skirts, pants, dresses. They emphasize the waist and bring a fresh new contemporary spin to Fall 2008.

SHOULDER STORY
The bigger shoulder is back! "That broader shoulder is definitely a key fall trend," says Atkin. "It might be done with a rounded shoulder or a cape-like back rather than a shoulder pad. But this new silhouette is very couture in its feel." As Atkin says, "I'll be interested to see how Canadian designers create new coats to work with this trend."

ROMANTIC GOTH
From vampy lips to sexy black nails a modern Goth vibe stormed the international runways this season. "I'm calling it the dark romantic," says Atkin. For example, Prada captured this look with its use of black lace.  "These laces weren't prissy," says Atkin. "They were on the edge." A wild, savage mix of real and faux fur also pumped up this new power trend.

THE NEW NEO-MINIMALISM
Fall's new minimalist trend gives future-forward fashion an updated twist. "When you look at Yves Saint Laurent – a designer who mastered this neo-minimalist trend – the clothes don't speak loudly. There aren't tons of embellishments to distract the eye," says Atkin.  "That means the shapes have to be beautifully tailored. The fabrics have to be utterly luxurious. Fall's new neo-minimalism is all about spare, smart, elegant design."

FOLK FUSION
Offbeat attitude and an unusual pairing of fabrics and textures amp up this new fall trend. "It's fall's Sonny & Cher moment," says Atkin. This trend spoke loudly at Roberto Cavalli, where he did a sexy chiffon dress with a huge sheepskin vest thrown over it. As Atkin says, "It's that folksy, love-in feel that makes this trend so eclectic."

BEST IN BOWS
Revisiting 1968, fall gives those ladylike bows of the Pat Nixon era a new bite. "You'll see them on romantic blouses or as details in the fabrics," says Atkin. "These bows are done with humour and great sex appeal. They're definitely not prissy."

COLOUR CONFIDENTIAL
Fall's colour story is a rich one says Atkin. "That explosion of hallucinogenic acid brights we saw for spring is continuing into fall." New neutrals and dark shades also round out fall's new colour palette. Softened dusty grey pastels take on new prominence, as do oil-slick green, inky navy and dark reds. As Atikin says, "Black today isn't about the simple black suit. You're looking at charcoal, grey and shades of black seen with different bubble textures, lace effects, blistering effects and so much more."

TOP COLLAR
Fall's high architectural collar creates a new visual interest around the face says Atkin. "It's all about the safe framing of the face. Some versions have an 18th-century in feel. Others have a more medieval vibe.  The most extreme collars even come up past the nose," says Atkin. "It's a really interesting option that goes way beyond the turtleneck."

MALE CALL
An updated take on man-friendly tailoring also makes big news for Fall 2008. "There's something appealing about a woman wearing a sexy little chiffon dress and borrowing her boyfriend's blazer to toss over it. It creates a very interesting sensibility," says Atkin. From the three-piece suit to the 70's-inspired flared pant or the new skintight jodhpur, it's that new masculine edge that pumps up the girl power.

Written by: Constance Droganes, entertainment writer, CTV.ca