LUCIAN MATIS, BUSTLE, JOEFFER CAOC

BLACK BELT
LUCIAN MATIS
Oriental stillness enlivened by modern military spice sets the style stage for Lucian Matis in Fall 2008.

Inspired by his first visit to China in December of 2007, Matis made the serene sophistication of basic black the star of his first full commercial collection.

"There are a few pieces in grey and white. Everything else is in black cashmere, silk, alpaca wool and some novelty fabric blends," says the Romanian-born designer who moved to Canada in 1999 and launched his fashion studies at Toronto's Ryerson University in 2000.

Known for his detailed work and Parisian-inspired flavour, Matis reinvented his design approach and loaded this new collection with shapes reflecting an 80's twist, "I definitely experimented until I got the mood right. The clothes are simple, silent and subtle," says Matis. "It's all about going back to basics."

Austerely urbane and undeniably elegant, Matis also keeps embellishments to a minimum in this streamlined fall mix.

"We've seen so much embellishment lately with designers in Paris and New York. I wanted to get way from that and simplify things," says Matis. "Everything is sophisticated. Everything is modern yet timeless. But with all that's been happening in the world today I wanted to inspire women in a different way," says Matis. "I wanted to let the clothes be still and let women get away from all that fashion noise."

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CASINO ADVENTURER
BUSTLE
With a tongue-in-cheek tone that's all baccarat and Bond, high-rolling rakishness is the rage at Bustle for Fall 2008.

"We're not talking about playing slots at the MGM grand," says Shawn Hewson, creative director for Bustle Clothing. "We've taken our inspiration from that high-pedigree lifestyle. From horse racing to skeet shooting, it's the aspirational adventurer that makes this fall collection so cool."

Hewson, along with co-founder Ruth Promislow, pump up this season's well-heeled haute with a slick combination of black-on-black dressing. "We don't usually work with black," says Hewson. "But the fabrics in the collection offer a great mix of textures and tones."

Pithy three-piece looks and slick silhouettes also maximize the collection's tony gentleman vibe.  "We take our inspiration from everything – fashion, art, film and the street," says Hewson.  "We've always gone for the confidence and eccentricity that seems to be showing up a lot now on international runways."

As Hewson says, "It's great when you see that aesthetic Bustle has always tried to capture start trickling down to the consumer. Ultimately it all comes down to doing what feels right. Designers need to be who they are."

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BELLE BOY
JOEFFER CAOC

Inspired by "Belle de jour" beauty Catherine Deneuve, Joeffer Caoc heats up Fall 2008 with his sexy, modern take on bored housewife haute.

"You have to have a vision. Then you have to figure out how far you're going to push it," says the Canadian design star. Serving up streamlined silhouettes with a new, darker edginess, Caoc's womanly collection puts the spotlight on long, lean toppers and sexy French secretary detailing.

A moodier colour palette and a random mix of textures also give this striking collection a contemporary twist. "It's all about mixing classic pieces with surprising elements," says Caoc. "There's a lot of black and lots of elements that allude to lingerie. But it's Catherine Deneuve minus the hardcore S&M stuff."

Classic toppers shine in sexy patent leather and metallic basket weaves.  Stretch fabrics embossed with reptile skin prints wrap around the body for a sexy lingerie feel. As Caoc says, "Mixing these textures was new for me. The big challenge was using a variety of textures and still creating a cohesive collection."

Simplified shapes with a touch of volume also pump up the urban edge. "We did volume in the collection, but it's deflated. It's very close to the body," says Caoc. "More volume doesn't always work for every woman. It's got to feel right."

True to his vision and his signature style, Caoc says, "Sexy isn't always Victoria's Secret. It can be classic, elegant and totally modern. That's what I'm out to prove."

Written by: Constance Droganes, entertainment writer, CTV.ca. Photo credit: LUCIAN MATIS by Arline Malakian; JOEFFER CAOC by James Reid.

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