A subtle dichotomy runs throughout Jonathan Saunders’ second collection for Diane von Furstenberg: satin-backed linen is sophisticated and naturally raw; contrasting front and back panels on tops and dresses add an element of surprise. She is at once provocative yet playful, intentional yet impulsive.

Textures add depth to expressive surface prints: embellishment, screen-printed paillettes, hand-beading and jacquards bring a new dimension to the clothes. Separates become increasingly prominent: flared and stove-pipe pants, woven polo shirts and pencil skirts that skim the knee recall an indie spirit.

Lightness and transparency prevail. Delicate webbed lace dresses in dusky pastels and gauzy, airy knitwear in vibrant hues are resoundingly feminine. Easy layering implies a sense of eccentricity, freedom and confidence. Crisp, floral printed cotton poplin and gingham signal an optimistic summer.

Acknowledging the season as ‘Summer’ pays respect to the calendar, giving her what she wants, when she wants it.
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