Reference

Fashion Glossary

88 terms, from A-line to yoke
A B C D E F H J L M N O P Q R S T W Y

A

A-line

A classic style of clothing that got its start in the 1950s with Christian Diors designs. An A-line dress is characterized by a narrow top half and a flared bottom half, creating an A shape when viewed from the side. The design features a fitted silhouette at the shoulder or waist, which then gradually widens out to a fuller hemline.

apparel price ranges

In the world of fashion, prices are grouped into distinct tiers, starting with the most affordable low end options. As you move up the scale, youll find budget and then moderate priced items. Next is the better category, followed by the more upscale bridge designs. At the very top, youll discover high-end designer apparel, renowned for its quality, craftsmanship, and prestige.

applique

Applique is a textile design technique where decorative shapes or designs are cut from one fabric and then attached to another fabric or garment using sewing or adhesive methods. This process adds an extra layer of visual interest to the base material, making it a popular choice among quilt makers, fabric artists, and fashion designers seeking to create unique and eye-catching pieces.

armseye/armscye

In the world of sewing and design, the term armhole refers to the opening or cavity at the top of a garment that allows for the arm to pass through.

asymmetric styling

In fashion design, asymmetry refers to a style where one side of an article of clothing is intentionally different from the other side. This means that the design doesnt have symmetry, as both sides wouldnt be identical. Asymmetrical elements can appear in features like collars, necklines, closures, or hemlines, adding visual interest and uniqueness to a garment.

B

balaclava

A type of knitted headgear that covers the majority of the head and face, leaving only the eyes and possibly some facial features exposed. This style of headwear is designed for extreme cold weather and has its origins in military uniforms, specifically among troops fighting during the Battle of Balaclava in the Crimean War.

basket bag

A handbag design that resembles a traditional basket, often featuring a woven or wicker exterior. While traditionally made from natural materials, modern versions of this style can also be created using synthetic materials, interwoven fibers, or even plastic or leather molded to resemble a basket shape.

basque

A design element that extends from the waistline down to the hem of a fitted bodice or jacket. Unlike a peplum, which is shorter and flared, basques can be any length, shape, or size and may be placed around the entire garment or just in specific areas such as the back, front, or sides.

batik

Batik is a traditional textile decorating technique that uses wax to resist dye on fabric. The wax-covered areas do not absorb the dye, creating unique designs. The process can be repeated multiple times with different colors, allowing for intricate patterns. This ancient Indonesian art form has been imitated in machine prints for Western fashion trends.

batwing/dolman sleeve

A type of sleeve that fits snugly at the wrist but then widens dramatically, resembling a cape from the back. The name batwing comes from its similarity to the wing of a bat or a coat style popular in the late 1800s with a similarly shaped sleeve.

bias/bias cut

The bias is the diagonal direction of woven fabric, which tends to stretch more in that direction than in the length or width. Designers can capitalize on this stretch by strategically placing bias areas to create garments that fit the body closely or drape elegantly. The legendary designer Madeline Vionnet 1912-1940 was celebrated for her innovative use of bias design.

bishop sleeve

A classic sleeve style characterized by a narrow, close-fitting section from the armhole to the wrist, which then gradually widens and becomes gathered into a snug cuff. Some variations feature a concentrated fullness at the wrist that creates a flowing drapery effect beneath the wrist.

blucher

A style of Oxford shoes where the tongue and vamp are integrated into one piece, creating a seamless design on the front of the shoe.

body

Body refers to clothing that fits closely to the body, such as bodysuits or body-hugging garments. It can also describe jewelry worn on various parts of the body. In terms of fabric feel, body describes a texture that is both flexible and compact, with a solid yet yielding quality.

boiled wool

Fulling is a process that transforms woolen fabric into a denser, more compact material. This is achieved by applying heat, pressure, and moisture to the woven fabric, resulting in a thicker, more robust texture.

bonnet

The term bonnet typically refers to womens and childrens headcoverings that cover the back and top of the head, fastening under the chin. While few bonnets are made for adults today, they are still popular for kids and infants. The poke bonnet was a dramatic 19th-century style with a high crown and wide brim that hid the face.

brand and trademark

A brand is a name or symbol given to a product by its maker. A trademark is a unique word, design, or device that identifies a product or service. Trademarks can be registered with the government to prevent others from using them. In the US, products must have been sold before they can be trademarked. Common words and phrases cannot be trademarked. Registered trademarks are marked with symbols like R, TM, and SM.

bretelles

A type of decorative trim or fabric strip that runs diagonally from the center of the waist to the outer edges of the shoulders, similar in appearance to a turned-back collar or revers.

bugle beads

Tubular beads, often used for decorative purposes on clothing, that can be sewn onto garments in various colors.

bustier

A type of garment that combines the functions of a corset and brassiere, typically ending at the waist or extending to the hips. Originally an undergarment known as a merry widow, it has evolved into a strapless top worn by women, often made from decorative fabric.

bustle

Bustle refers to (1) the fullness at the back of a skirt or (2) an undergarment structure that creates and supports the fullness. This element was popular in womens fashion from around 1870 to 1890, with occasional revivals for evening wear.

buttonholes

A buttonhole is the opening into which a button fits to close a garment. To prevent fraying and ensure security, buttonholes must be finished with a stitch or other method. Hand-embroidered or machine-stitched worked buttonholes typically feature reinforced stitching at the end where the button rests. Bound buttonholes, often found on high-end coats and suits, involve sewing fabric or leather strips around the opening and pulling them to the inside, creating a visible folded edge. This finishing technique can be used to add ornamentation to the garment, with contrasting colors adding visual interest.

C

CAD CAM CIM

The acronyms CAD (Computer-Aided Design), CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacturing), and CIM (Computer-Integrated Manufacturing) refer to technologies used in apparel design and manufacturing. CAD programs help designers create digital designs, experiment with ideas, and make decisions about styles, colors, fabrics, etc. CAM programs support the manufacturing process, from pattern making to cutting and sewing. When combined, CAD CAM enables a seamless transition from design to production. CIM takes it a step further by ensuring smooth communication between programs, allowing data to flow accurately and efficiently throughout the production process.

camisole camisole top

In the 19th century, a camisole was a type of undergarment worn over a corset, typically reaching up to the waist and featuring broad straps that tied at the top with a drawstring. The garment might be trimmed with lace or embroidery. In modern usage, the term camisole can refer to any undergarment worn over a brassiere that ends at the waist. Additionally, fashion items like blouses or tops that mimic the style of the historic camisole are sometimes referred to as camisole tops.

cap

A cap is a headcovering worn for casual or athletic purposes that fits snugly to the head, often featuring a visor at the front. Caps are typically made of fabric, such as felt or leather. They are commonly part of uniforms used in sports or the military, and can also become popular among the general public, like baseball caps have done.

cheongsam

The Qing-dynasty-inspired garment features a prominent standing collar, short sleeves, and a diagonal fastening with buttons or decorative closures. Its fitted design is accentuated by a side slit that can extend high up the thigh. This distinctive style emerged in the 1930s as an innovative fusion of Western and Chinese fashion elements.

chine warp print

This distinctive printing method involves first laying down the warp yarns on the loom, followed by the application of a design to these yarns. Next, the weft yarns are woven in, resulting in a soft, dreamy print with a misty quality. This technique is commonly used for creating luxurious and elaborate garments like evening gowns.

D

DIM financing

DIP stands for Debtor in Possession financing, which is a type of funding that enables an individual or business to continue operating while going through the Chapter 11 bankruptcy process. This financing option allows the debtor to potentially restructure and recover from financial difficulties, rather than being forced into liquidation.

dart

A type of alteration that involves folding and sewing a V-shaped tuck into fabric to create a tailored fit around the body's curves. This technique is typically used to shape garments at strategic points such as the bust, shoulders, waist, and hips, ensuring a comfortable and flattering silhouette.

dorsay shoe or slipper

The term d'Orsay refers to a type of shoe that features an enclosed heel and toe, but is cut away at the sides to expose the sole. This style can be paired with various heel designs and vamp (front) patterns. It gets its name from Count d'Orsay, a stylish and fashion-conscious individual who lived in Paris during the mid-19th century.

E

ease

Ease can refer to two different concepts in garment design. 1. In terms of fit, ease refers to the intentional fullness or room incorporated into a pattern so that it drapes comfortably on the body. 2. As a verb, ease describes the process of gradually gathering or folding the edge of a larger garment section onto a smaller one until they match in size, creating a seamless join.

embroidery

Embroidery is the art of embellishing fabric through various decorative stitching techniques, either by hand or machine, using threads of similar or contrasting hues. This ancient craft has evolved distinct styles and traditions across different cultures and geographical areas, often reflecting the unique heritage and aesthetic sensibilities of specific regions or ethnic groups.

empire waist

The term Napoleon refers to a type of waistline placement, specifically located just beneath the bustline. This style takes its name from the high-waisted garments that were popular during the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte (1804-1814), and is characterized by a raised waistline that falls just above the natural waist.

espadrille

The term Desert Boot typically refers to a type of shoe featuring a canvas upper and a rope-like sole. Historically, these boots were slip-on designs with long laces that tied around the ankle. Today, the term encompasses various styles of shoes with canvas uppers and rope-inspired soles, which may or may not retain the original slip-on design.

F

face

The verb to face means to attach a shaped piece of fabric to the edge of a garment, such as the neckline, so that it has a smooth finish. This attached piece is called a facing. The noun facing refers to the outer side or surface of a textile fabric.

factoring factor

The term factoring describes a financial strategy that helps businesses maintain a consistent cash flow. A factor (an intermediary) purchases the outstanding invoices or accounts receivable from a manufacturer at a discounted rate, providing the business with immediate access to the funds. The factor then collects the full amount owed by the customers and pockets the difference between what was paid for the accounts receivable and the actual value of the payments as profit.

fashion

While fashion often refers to current clothing trends, scholars define it as having two key elements: widespread acceptance and a relatively short lifespan. Fashion isn't universal across all cultures and historical periods; instead, it emerged in Western Europe during the late Middle Ages. Initially, nobility drove fashion trends, with lower classes adopting upper-class styles (the trickle-down theory). Today, fashion can originate from various social levels, including the least affluent, a phenomenon known as percolate up or bottom-up fashion change.

fashion tribes

Contemporary fashion has shifted away from a single, universal trend and instead caters to various subcultures or style tribes that define themselves through their clothing choices. This phenomenon is often referred to as the concept of tribal fashion. The term was coined by writer Ted Polhemus. Examples of well-known youthful style tribes include punks, goths, hip-hop fans, and ravers, each with its distinct aesthetic and identity.

frog

The term Aglet refers to a type of decorative fastening commonly found in garments with a Chinese influence. It typically involves a loop on one side and an ornate knot on the other, which passes through the loop to secure the opening. The aglet is often used as a closure mechanism in garments that feature intricate designs inspired by Chinese culture.

H

hat

In the context of headwear, hat can be used to describe any type of head covering. However, among hat makers, the term typically refers to a specific type of hat that has a crown and brim and doesn't have an adjustable chin strap. A hat without a brim or with a very small one is often called a toque. When it comes to men's hats, classic styles include the fedora, which features a moderately wide brim and a soft, creased crown, and the homburg, which has a narrower, rolled brim and a more rigid crown with a defined front-to-back crease.

havelock

A type of cap, often featuring a visor, is characterized by an extension of fabric from the back edge to the base of the neck. This design originated as part of military uniforms in regions with intense sunlight, serving as protection for soldiers. In recent times, concerns about prolonged sun exposure have led to the adoption of this style by civilians for sportswear and outdoor activities.

hems

A hem refers to the finished lower edge of a garment part, typically achieved through sewing to cover the raw edge. There are various types of hems, including: 1. Plain hem: A straightforward finish where the edge is turned up and sewn in place. 2. Rolled hem: Used for sheer or delicate fabrics, this involves rolling the edge by hand into a narrow hem, which is then secured with small stitches. 3. Faced hem: This type of hem features a separate piece of fabric attached to the garment's edge at the bottom, then turned up and sewn in place to complete the finish.

hoop/crinoline

A petticoat or underskirt is an undergarment designed to add volume and fullness to a skirt. Its construction can vary, but common methods include: 1. Hoop-based: A series of concentric hoops that start below the waist and gradually increase in diameter, reaching the hem. These hoops are connected by vertical tapes or sewn into a petticoat. 2. Crinoline-style: A petticoat made from stiff fabric, often originally crafted with horsehair. In the 1860s, these undergarments were a staple in womens wardrobes, but today they are commonly worn under evening gowns and wedding dresses for added drama and glamour.

J

just-in-time manufacturing

Just-in-time JIT manufacturing is a production method where materials are produced only when they are needed, eliminating the need for storing excess inventory. This efficient approach relies on real-time electronic tracking and communication to ensure that products are manufactured exactly when required, minimizing storage costs and maximizing supply chain flexibility.

L

lace and tatting

Lace and tatting are forms of needlework that involve knotting or looping threads together. While most lace today is machine-made, traditional handmade lace was created using two main techniques: bobbin lace and needlepoint lace. Bobbin lace involved winding thread onto small bobbins and then interlacing the thread around pins on a special pillow to create intricate designs. Needlepoint lace, on the other hand, required creating a pattern on parchment paper, stitching it in place with small stitches, and then working the background with a needle and thread. Tatting is a distinct technique that involves winding thread onto small shuttles and using these shuttles to create loops and designs. Tatting is often used for decorative trimming and is typically narrower than other types of lace.

leg-of-mutton sleeve

A gigot sleeve, also known as a puffed sleeve, is a type of arm covering that features a full and gathered top that tapers gradually to fit snugly at the wrist. This style is often associated with revivals of the 1890s fashion era and can be referred to by its French name, gigot, which translates to leg of lamb.

line

In the world of fashion, line can have multiple meanings. 1. Noun: Referring to the shape or silhouette of a garment, as in The dress has a simple line. 2. Verb: Lining refers to the process of placing a layer of fabric on the inside of a garment to conceal construction details. 3. Noun: A fashion line is a collection of clothing designed and produced by a designer or manufacturer for a specific season or time period. This term is often used interchangeably with collection, which is more commonly employed in high-end fashion. A secondary line, on the other hand, is a lower-priced group of styles marketed to a different demographic than the primary line.

loafer

A classic slip-on shoe with a moccasin-style design features a slotted strap at the front vamp that is stitched to the shoe. This type of shoe can be categorized in different ways based on its additional features: If a penny or coin is inserted into the slot, its called a penny loafer. If the strap has a tassel at the front, its a tassel-top loafer. If a metal chain is fastened to the strap, its referred to as a chain loafer. Some notable variations include Gucci loafers, which are characterized by their distinctive gold metal hardware decorations.

lyocell fiber

Regenerated cellulose fiber is a type of sustainable textile produced through a manufacturing process. The trademark names for this fiber are Tencel and Lyocell, both owned by Lenzing. Although the Federal Trade Commission has classified lyocell as a generic term, it also recognizes it as a subcategory of rayon due to its similarities. Tencel/Lyocell fiber is known for its environmentally friendly production process, excellent dyeability in various colors, pleasant texture, and strong consumer acceptance.

M

macrame

Macrame not to be confused with the trademarked term Macram is a traditional handicraft technique that involves knotting multiple yarns, strings, or cords together to create intricate and decorative patterns on small pieces of fabric. This process can involve two to four or more strands being knotted into various designs. Macrame has experienced periodic revivals in popularity and is often used to create unique accessories such as belts, handbags, vests, or trimmings for clothing. In some cases, beads may be incorporated into the design of the fabric to add an extra layer of visual interest.

manufactured fiber

Synthetic fibers refer to man-made materials that do not occur naturally in their original form. These fibers are produced through industrial processes that transform raw materials or natural substances into usable textiles. Regenerated fibers fall under this category, as they are created by processing natural materials like wood chips or cotton linters, which cannot be used directly for fabrics. Examples of regenerated fibers include rayon and lyocell. On the other hand, synthetic fibers are made from chemical compounds, such as nylon and polyester.

markup/short markup

In the context of fashion retail, the difference between the cost to produce a garment and the price at which it will be sold is referred to as the markup. Typically, the sales price is twice the manufacturing cost. When the markup is lower than this typical ratio, it is considered a short markup.

messenger bag

Messenger-inspired handbags typically feature a spacious main compartment that can be zipped closed, reminiscent of the bags carried by messengers in the past. A flap on the front folds down and secures with a buckle or snap, providing an additional layer of closure. Small versions of these bags may also be referred to as courier bags, echoing their origins as functional carryalls for important messages.

minaudiere

Evening clutches are luxurious handbags made from metallic pieces that are often lavishly adorned with precious stones, intricate metalwork, or other decorative elements. These bags can take various shapes, such as square, oval, or oblong, and may feature a short chain or handle for carrying. Their ornate designs make them perfect for evening events, emphasizing their role as stylish accessories rather than practical carryalls.

mule

A type of shoe or slipper, often with a high heel, is characterized by a fitted vamp front but lacks a back portion. This design allows for creative freedom in the front section, which can take many different styles. The heel can vary in height, adding an extra layer of versatility to this already unique footwear style.

N

non-wovens

Nonwovens are fabrics that do not rely on traditional textile production methods like weaving, knitting, knotting, or crocheting. Instead, they are formed through various processes such as mechanical action, thermal bonding, chemical solvents, or adhesive agents. One of the oldest non-woven textiles is felt, which originated from wool fibers that bond together when exposed to moisture, heat, and pressure. Felt has been found in ancient archeological sites and is still manufactured today using wool or other fibers. When made from fibers other than wool, additional processing is required to join the fibers together. Another example of a non-woven textile is bark cloth or tapa, which was created by pre-industrial people from the fibrous inner bark of certain trees. This unique fabric is no longer commercially produced but remains an important part of cultural heritage.

O

open orders

Open orders refer to retail purchases made from manufacturers without a specific delivery deadline. These orders are typically less rigid, with the retailer committing to spend a certain amount but not necessarily specifying exact colors, sizes, or styles. In other words, open orders provide retailers with the flexibility to stock up on merchandise over time, rather than relying on precise shipment dates for specific products.

open to ship

Retailers use inventory management techniques, including forecasting, to determine the optimal quantity of merchandise they need to stock in order to meet their planned sales goals. This process involves analyzing historical data, market trends, and other factors to estimate demand and ensure that the right amount of product is available when customers want to buy it.

open-to-buy OTB

In purchasing planning, a buyer calculates the total cost of a specific type of merchandise needed for a particular time period. After placing part but not all of that order, the actual cost spent is calculated. The difference between the planned cost and the actual cost is known as open-to-buy. This amount represents the flexibility budget available to adjust orders or make changes. The open-to-buy provides an opportunity for buyers to make adjustments based on changing market conditions, sales performance, or other factors, allowing them to optimize their purchasing decisions.

oxford

The term closed-toe refers to a basic shoe style that features a closure mechanism, such as laces or another type of fastening, to secure the foot within the shoe. The styling and cut of the shoe can vary greatly, but the defining characteristic is the presence of a closing mechanism. Historically, the term was used by shoemakers to distinguish between low-cut shoes and boots, with closed-toe shoes being characterized as having a higher cut. Today, the primary distinction remains the presence of a closure mechanism, which sets closed-toe shoes apart from other styles like sandals or slip-ons.

P

pagoda sleeve

The pagoda sleeve is a unique design that resembles an Asian architectural feature of the same name. It features a narrow top section that closely fits the upper arm, gradually widening outwards to form a flared bottom shape, similar to a funnel. This style may also be referred to as a funnel sleeve due to its tapered shape, which starts narrow at the top and broadens towards the bottom. The pagoda sleeve is characterized by its distinctive gradual flare-out from top to bottom, creating a visually striking silhouette.

panniers

Paniers are types of hoop-like structures that sit on the hips and hold skirts outwards at the sides. Originally used in the 18th century, these paniers were named after the basket-like materials used to create undergarment supports (French paniers means basket). In England, this term was spelled as panniers, but the actual devices were often referred to simply as hoops. Today, paniers are commonly used in evening and wedding gowns to add volume and drama to the skirt. Despite their historical origins, the term panier has largely given way to hoop when referring to these types of structures.

peplum

A peplum is a design element in clothing construction that adds a ruffled or flared detail to the garment. Typically, it extends just below the waistline and can be created by sewing a separate piece of fabric to the bodice, cutting it as one with the bodice, or attaching it to a belt.

pile

Pile refers to loops or tufts of yarns or fibers that are incorporated into a fabric to create a textured surface. The pile can be cut in various ways to create different effects, such as brushing it in one direction. Garment pieces made from fabrics with pile must be cut in the same direction as the pile, otherwise, the reflection of light may cause the appearance of color variations. Pile can be found on fabrics that have an allover textured surface or limited areas with pile designs, known as cut velvets. It is important to distinguish pile from nap, which refers to fiber ends brushed up on the surface of a fabric.

pleat

A pleat is a fold of fabric that is either stitched in place or secured by another construction feature to create fullness and shape. Pleats are often grouped together and can be found in various types of garments, including blouses, skirts, and pants. There are numerous types of pleats, each with its own unique characteristics. Some common examples include: Knife pleats: pressed edges that face the same direction, Box pleats: edges facing opposite directions, Inverted pleats: edges brought together at a center line, Sunburst or accordion pleats: narrower at the top and wider at the bottom, Kick pleats: a single pleat often placed at the bottom of a narrow skirt.

Q

Quick Response

Quick Response (QR) is a manufacturing system that leverages electronic communications to enable rapid production and supply chain efficiency. In the domestic textile and apparel industry, QR technology has enabled companies to rapidly supply products within days or weeks, significantly reducing lead times compared to traditional methods which could take months.

R

raglan

The Raglan sleeve is a popular sleeve construction where the underarm seam extends from the armpit to the neckline at both the front and back. This design originated when Lord Raglan, a British General who lost an arm during the Crimean War in 1854, had coats with this type of sleeve constructed for himself as a practical solution for amputees.

returns to vendor

A return is merchandise that has been purchased and subsequently returned by the buyer to the seller or vendor from whom it was originally bought.

ruching

In modern fashion, ruching refers to garments with large areas of gathered fabric that create a rippled or textured effect. Historically, ruching referred to a type of trim made by pleating bands of fabric and stitching them in place. These pleated bands were then sewn onto various parts of the garment, adding decorative interest and texture.

S

seam

In sewing, a seam refers to the joining point where two pieces of fabric come together, creating a visible or invisible line on the surface of a garment. There are various types of seams used depending on factors like decoration, fabric type, and stress levels. Some common seam types include: Plain seam: A construction where the right sides of two garment pieces are placed together, then sewn on the underside of the fabric to create an inside seam. Flat felled seam or simulated flat felled seam: A durable seam with a double row of stitching that holds it in place, often used for sturdy fabrics like denim. French seams: Used for sheer and delicate fabrics, this technique involves sewing a seam on the right side of the fabric, then enclosing it with another row of stitching. These different seam types serve various purposes, such as preventing raveling (the tendency of raw edges to fray) or creating a decorative element.

sew by

A sample garment, also known as a prototype or mock-up, is a test garment prepared by a contractor (or manufacturer) to demonstrate their ability to produce a specific type of garment for another company. The purpose of this sample garment is to allow the manufacturer to evaluate and compare the quality of the garments produced by the contractor to that of the original sample.

shibori

A resist-dye method involves pre-treating fabric with stitching and gathering to create textured, gathered areas. Before dyeing, the fabric is worked into intricate folds, which are then stitched together. Once dyed, the stitching is removed, releasing the crinkled areas. The undyed sections underneath the stitches remain unaffected by the dye, resulting in unique, irregular patterns on the finished fabric.

shift

A shift dress is a basic style characterized by simplicity, straight lines, and a loose fit that doesn't hug the body closely. This design has been popular across different eras, including the 1960s when unfitted styles were in vogue. One notable innovation in shift dresses during the 1960s was the introduction of diagonal darts running from the side seam to the bustline, which added some shape and structure to the garment. In contrast, a sheath dress is a more fitted design that features vertical darts, bust darts, and shaping from side seams to provide a closer fit.

signature bag

A designer-printed handbag is a luxury item that showcases a high-end fashion brand's logo, initials, or signature design in an all-over pattern or strategically placed to make it noticeable. These bags are often considered status symbols and can be highly coveted. Unfortunately, counterfeit copies of these authentic designer bags are commonly sold by street vendors, which can be difficult for consumers to distinguish from the real thing.

sourcing

Sourcing refers to the process of identifying potential suppliers or sources for textiles and/or apparel, as well as determining how and when these products will be obtained. This can involve exploring both domestic and international options in today's global economy. In other words, sourcing involves finding the best possible provider of a specific product, whether it's from a local supplier or one located elsewhere in the world.

soutache braid

A braid is a type of decorative element that consists of flat strands of fabric or yarn woven together. It is typically relatively narrow and can be applied to garments in rows or intricate patterns to add ornamentation. In other words, braids are flat strips of textile material that are often used to embellish clothing, usually by weaving them into rows or complex designs to create visual interest.

spangles

Spangles are decorative elements that can be sewn onto garments to add embellishment. These small pieces are usually made from metal or plastic and have a hole for sewing. The most common types of spangles are sequins, which are typically round and small, and paillettes, which come in various shapes and sizes. In fashion design, spangles are often used in combination with beads to create eye-catching decorations on evening dresses, handbags, and other accessories.

sportswear

The term sportswear originated as clothing designed for athletic activities, but evolved to encompass casual wear for everyday life. Today, it refers to relaxed clothing suitable for various activities and occasions. Meanwhile, the term activewear tends to focus on garments specifically designed for active sports or fitness pursuits. It's fascinating to note that sportswear has had a significant impact on global fashion trends, with American design playing a major role in shaping this genre of casual wear.

stitch-bonding

Stitch-bonded fabrics are often categorized as nonwovens, and they're created by sewing or knitting together yarns or fibers to form a fabric. The first type of this material was developed in East Germany under the name Malimo. There are different techniques used to make stitch-bonded fabrics, such as: Laying warp and weft yarns across each other without interlacing and then using a sewing or knitting stitch to hold them together. Sewing pile yarns to a woven or knitted base. Sewing a web of fibers together. These types of fabrics can be used for clothing, household textiles, and industrial applications. One advantage of stitch-bonded fabrics is that they require less yarn or fiber than traditional knitting or weaving methods, which makes them more cost-effective. Additionally, they can be produced more quickly than other fabric-making techniques.

stock keeping units

Stock Keeping Unit (SKU) is an inventory management term that refers to a unique identifier assigned to each distinct product or item that a retailer wants to track and manage. All items with the same SKU would be identical in terms of style, color, size, or other characteristics. For example, a navy blue polyester skirt in size 12 would have one SKU, while the same skirt in size 14 would have a different SKU. This allows retailers to easily identify and manage their inventory, track sales, and make informed decisions about product ordering and storage.

stock on hand

Merchandise on hand refers to the retail items that are currently stocked at a retail store or other outlet, and are ready to be sold to customers. This inventory is typically organized and managed by the retailer to ensure it remains fresh, attractive, and in good condition for sale.

T

TFPIA

The acronym TFPIA stands for the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, which is enforced by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC). This legislation requires that textile products have labels indicating their fiber content. The specific information required on the label includes: The percentage of each fiber in the product, the fibers listed by generic name (with trademark names optional), the largest quantity first, followed by the next largest, and so on. If a fiber is present in less than 5% of the total fiber content, it must be labeled as other fiber unless it serves a specific purpose or provides a particular benefit to the fabric. The label must also include the manufacturer's name or number and the country of origin. The label cannot indicate the presence of fibers that are not actually part of the product.

tie dye

Tie-dye is a decorative method that involves tying string or other material around specific areas of a garment or fabric to prevent dye from being absorbed. This creates resistant areas where the dye cannot penetrate, resulting in unique patterns and designs. To achieve multicolored effects, the fabric can be tied in different areas and then dipped in another colored dye. This process can be repeated as many times as desired, allowing for endless creative possibilities. When tie-dye fabrics become popular, machine printing is often used to reproduce these designs, creating mass-produced versions of the original hand-tied designs.

tuck

Tucking is a technique used to manipulate fullness in garments by folding the fabric and sewing a row of stitching parallel to the fold, releasing the fullness at the end of the stitching. Similar to tucks are pleats and tucks, but tucks are smaller, typically measuring only an inch or less in width. Multiple tucks can be made in the same area to create a specific effect. Tucks can sometimes be turned to the outside of a garment as an ornamental feature, adding visual interest and texture.

W

Watteau back

A Watteau back refers to the rear of a garment where box pleats are placed at the center back seam, allowing the fabric to fall loosely to the bottom of the garment. The name Watteau originates from French artist Jean Antoine Watteau, whose 18th-century paintings featured women wearing dresses with this design element. Although the style was not officially named until the 19th century, it has remained popular over time, particularly in nightgowns and robes where its flowing design is often appreciated.

weave types

Fabrics can be woven in various ways using yarns and a loom. The process involves placing warp yarns (lengthwise) on the loom first, followed by interlacing crosswise or weft yarns with them. There are three basic weaves: plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. In plain weave, each row of weft yarns crosses over one warp yarn, then under another, repeating this pattern across the fabric's width. This is the simplest weave, but by varying yarn colors, sizes, or types, many different fabrics can be produced. A variation of plain weave called basket weave can be created by having multiple rows of weft yarns cross over several rows of warp yarns at once. Twill weave features a regular pattern of interlacing weft and warp yarns, resulting in a diagonal line (wale) on the fabric's surface. Satin weave involves weft yarns floating over then interlacing with warp yarns, producing patterns without diagonal lines. This results in fabrics with high luster when using loosely twisted filament fibers. More complex patterns can be created using special looms like dobby or jacquard, which combine basic weaves to produce highly decorative fabrics.

weft and warp knits

Knitting is a fabric-forming technique that involves creating interconnected loops from yarn. There are two main types of knitting: weft and warp. Weft knitting involves running yarns across the fabric, while warp knitting runs yarns in the lengthwise direction. Hand knitting is a type of weft knitting, but machines can also be used to create weft knits. Weft knits tend to stretch more than warp knits, and if stitches break, a run or ladder forms in the lengthwise direction. Common types of weft knits include jersey, velour, terrycloth, fleece, imitation furs, plush, and doubleknits. Warp knitting, on the other hand, is more stable and resistant to runs, producing fabrics like tricots and raschel knits that can mimic lace or crochet patterns.

Y

yarn types

Yarns are created by twisting or binding fibers together to produce fabrics. Fibers can come in the form of long, continuous strands called filaments, which are often made from silk or manufactured materials. Alternatively, short staple fibers like cotton, wool, and linen must be twisted together to create a yarn. Yarns can be categorized based on their composition: single yarns consist of one strand, while ply yarns involve two or more single yarns twisted together, and cord yarns are made from multiple ply yarns. Simple yarns have a uniform surface and diameter, whereas novelty or fancy yarns are designed to create decorative effects. Novelty yarns can be single strands with unique textures, such as slub yarns that feature tightly and loosely twisted sections, or they can be ply yarns with decorative loops like boucle yarns. By varying the structure of yarns, a vast array of different types and decorative effects can be achieved.